MONGOLIAN DREAMS:

A JOURNEY TO AN OUTER WORLD…

 

We live with fear of life. That was the first thing I learned from Mongolians.

I was walking on a street, the normal street of a normal western town, when a young little girl passed by me like a whirlwind crying in a very special mood. She was neither sad nor angry, even if you might have said she looked both: she was upset. I discovered suddenly that we, white western people, we civilized bourgeois, nurture the ego of our children by pumping into them the air of our own, silly, sick egocentrism till they balloon like Zeppelins on the grey polluted air of our evolution. Then, a little nothing, a contretemps, suffices to blast the balloon and make the children get off like darts, crying the hell, the hell of a petty little broken ego in fury. That’s pretty normal with western boys and girls, at least in Latin areas. We don’t even pay attention to it. Solutions vary, you may say —from repression to comprehension—, but that doesn’t matter. The harm is previous and deeper.

Mongolian children don’t have egos. Not that kind of aesthetically moralized follie-des-grandeurs of an ego, not that big self-dreamed-image of a tiny and secretly acknowledged nothing.

What they do have instead is respect for life, nature and elders; what we would call respect for environment. It is like that stuff said about the Montana family, you know this father and daughter as handsome as awesome that know the secret of happiness. Upon the shameful death of King Jackson, father Montana said to his pretty offspring: «Dear, I have to tell you something. Be very careful with money. You should treat as God itself: it shines, it’s high, it makes you feel great, it’s powerful, it can do miracles, but it can also be the worse of your nightmares and take you straightaway to hell if you ever, ever, EVER, fail to show him due and deep respect».

That’s the problem with capitalism —we worship money but don’t feel awe about it, we don’t have that «sacred fear» of Money-God that could make our behaviour both wiser and less desperate.

«Simple» societies, as we call them, have conserved the sense of measure. They surely need material things, and up to a certain point are aware that money is an universal object-changer, but they have conserved the radically wise perception that it is the spirit in matter —I mean what animates living water, living forests, living breeze and living beings— what makes life worth living… We have totally forgot that… We don’t tell it to our children anymore… And the consequence is an extremely instable, vulnerable, vast and deadly ego… It’s our madly individualistic and separate idea of «independence», of «autonomy», what keeps capital running and our children crying… If we have stopped living —for the sake of benefit— why do we feel surprised of getting no reward?

Os pasamos una información general: Important travelling info

The currency of Mongolia is called the tugrug (it is normally written as T). Banknotes are issued in denominations of  5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, 1000, 5000, 10 000 and 20 000 - all marked with the faces of either the ubiquitous Chinggis Khaan or Damdin Sukhbaatar. 1 US $ = 1425 Tugrug, dollars accepted in the most places and shops. Note that moneychangers will give you slightly better rates for new (i.e. post-1996) US dollar bills and for higher denominations (US$50 and US$100). US dollar bills dated pre-1988 are difficult to exchange anywhere

Postal Rates. Postal rates are often relatively expensive, especially for parcels, for which there is only an 'air mail' rate - yet they often arrive months later (probably by sea). Normal sized letters cost T550 and postcards cost T450 to all countries. A 1kg airmail parcel costs anywhere from Ò 13,000 to Ò 17,000 to most countries.
The postal service is reliable but can often be very slow. Allow at least a couple of weeks for letters and postcards to arrive from Mongolia. You won't find letter boxes on the streets. In most cases, you will have to post your letters from the post office.

Telephone. In Ulaanbaatar it is easy to make international or domestic calls. Outside of Ulaanbaatar, making calls is difficult: no-one will understand you unless you speak reasonable Mongolian or Russian, and the telephones may not work anyway.

Mobile phone. The mobile phone network is GSM. If you bring a GSM you can get a new SIM card installed in Mongolia.

Fax. Business centers in major hotels in Ulaanbaatar charge about T5000 to T6000 to send a one-page fax abroad and around T800 per page to receive one. The Central Post Office is less convenient but cheaper at T3000 per page. Outside Ulaanbaatar, forget it.

E-mail & Internet Access.  For travelers, email is easily the most reliable, cheapest and quickest way of communicating with the outside world.
There are dozens of Internet cafes in Ulaanbaatar that charge around T700 per hour. Outside of the capital, Internet access is rare, though larger towns have email facilities at the post/telecom office (so you can send an email but not access Internet-based accounts).

Photography and video. Film & Equipment. Mongolia is a very photogenic country. Major brands of print and even Polaroid film are available in shops in Ulaanbaatar (but nowhere in the countryside), though prices tend to be high, and you should always check the expiry date.
Several places around Sukhbaatar Square will process print film cheaply, but the quality may not be great; it's best to wait until you get home.
Technical Tips. If you do a jeep trip on an unpaved road, you can expect plenty of dust, so keep the camera well sealed in a plastic bag. Keep your film out of the Gobi's summer sun and Mongolia's winter freeze, when your automatic cameras and batteries may not work properly. Bring a spare camera battery, as these can stop working because of the cold, even in summer.

Restrictions. Photography is prohibited inside monasteries and temples, although you may photograph the exterior building and the monastery grounds. Also you can sometimes obtain special permission to take photographs in exchange for an extra fee. In most museums it is the best to have a look first before you decide whether to fork out the extra tugrik for photographs.  Remember that monks and nomads are not photographic models, so if they do not want to be photographed, their wishes should be respected. Always ask before taking a photograph.
Be careful about photographing potentially sensitive areas, especially border

Time. Mongolia is divided into two time zones: the three western aimags of Bayan-Olgii, Uvs and Khovd are one hour behind Ulaanbaatar, while the rest of the country follows Ulaanbaatar's time. The standard time in Ulaanbaatar is UTC/GMT plus eight hours.

Electricity. Electric power is 220V, 50Hz. Thanks to Russian influence, the sockets are designed to accommodate two round prongs in the European style

Weights and measures. Mongolia follows the international metric system. As in the USA, the ground floor is called the 1st floor - as opposed to the UK system, where the next floor above ground level is the 1st floor.

Health .Vaccinations against yellow fever (Hepatitis), polio, cholera, tyhoid fever are advised. Travelers should bring their own medical supplies for any personal needs and a basic medical kit. You should think that there is no perfect medical care in the countryside.
While the potential dangers can see m quite frightening, in reality few travelers to Mongolia experience anything more than an upset stomach

Clothes .There are no special dress codes, though you should avoid wearing revealing clothes in the countryside, even on hot summer days. In Ulaanbaatar on the other hand, Mongolian women dress in contemporary Western style fashions, so you may dress quite freely whilst there.
Warm clothes will be needed for any time of the year: even summer evenings can be chilly. If you are only traveling in the height of summer you don't need a down jacket - a rain shell will do. A long-sleeved shirt is useful against the sun and bugs. A good wide-brimmed hat to protect you from the sun is essential.
From September to June (inclusive) you'll also need a down coat and a fleece or jumper (sweater) - it's surprising how cold it gets when the sun goes down and the wind picks up. A woolen or fleece hat takes up

Do's and Don'ts Whenever you approach a nomadic family, or enter a ger, you will, without knowing, break one or several of the many traditional, religious and superstitious customs. If you do become confused, don't panic, minor indiscretions will be tolerated and forgiven. The following do's and don'ts will help minimize cultural differences.

Do. - Say hello (sain bainuu) when you arrive (but repeating it again when you
  see the same person is considered strange to Mongolians)
- Take at least a sip, or a nibble, of the delicacies offered
- Keep your sleeves rolled down, if you have any (or pretend to, if you have
  short sleeves); try not to expose your wrists
- Accept food and drink with your right hand (or with both if the dish or cup is
  heavy), with the left hand supporting the right elbow
- Pick up everything with an open hand, with your palm facing upwards
- Hold a cup by the bottom, and not by the top rim
- Sleep with your feet pointing towards the door
- Leave weapons outside
DO NOT. - Lean against a support column
- Whistle inside a ger
- Stand on, or lean over, the threshold
- Stamp out a fire, or put water or any rubbish on it (fire is sacred to
  Mongolians)
- Walk in front of an older person; or turn your back to the altar, or religious
  objects (except when leaving)
- Take food from a communal plate with your left hand
- Touch other people's hats
- Have a long conversation in your own language in front of your hosts

Rituals &
Superstitions

- Don't point a knife in any way at anyone; pass a knife handle first; use the
  knife to cut towards you, not away
- Don't spill any milk
- When offered some vodka, dip your ring finger of your right hand into the
  glass, and lightly flick a drop (not too much - vodka is also sacred!) once
  towards the sky, once in the air 'to the wind', and once to ground. If you
  don't want any vodka, go through the customs anyway, put the same finger
  to your forehead, say thanks, and return the glass to the table.
- Don't point your feet at the hearth, the altar or at another person
- Don't walk over an uurga, a lasso on a pole. If you have stepped on
  anyone, or kicked their feet, immediately shake their hand.

 

The following advice on security and laws and customs can help you stay out of trouble while you are abroad.

Security

• Be security conscious and take sensible precautions
• Be alert to unattended baggage in public places
• Look out for people acting suspiciously near ‘Western’ institutions or gatherings
• Avoid political and other demonstrations or gatherings
• Check cars and other vehicles thoroughly for explosive devices before use; especially if the vehicle has been left unguarded for any time
• Vary your route if making regular journeys
• Avoid unlit streets at night
• Carry only the minimum amount of cash that you need for the day
• Leave your valuables and spare cash in the hotel safe or other secure place
• Do not flaunt your (relative) wealth
• Never resist violent theft
• Check your guidebook, with your hotel or tour guide for warnings on local scams
• Should you lose your Hotel Room Key Card, bear in mind that information stored on it may include your name, partial home address, hotel room number, check in and check out dates and credit card number and expiry date.
• Keep abreast of the local and regional political scene in the media

Obey the law

• Find out about local laws and customs.
• Remember that the laws and procedures which apply are those of the country you are in, not the UK’s. However, in the case of sexual offences against children, extra territorial legislation can be used to prosecute offenders in the UK, under UK law, even when the sexual offence has been committed overseas. For further information on combating Child Sex Tourism see ECPAT UK and World Vision UK websites.
• Do not overstay your visa. You can extend your visa in most places; if you do not you can be imprisoned or fined.
• Do not work illegally. You can be deported, fined and imprisoned if you do. You may also be prevented from entering the country again in the future.
• Hobbies that involve the use of cameras and binoculars (like bird watching and train or plane spotting) can be misunderstood (particularly near military sites). If you are not sure, don't do it – it is not worth the risk of being wrongly arrested for spying.
• Try to be aware of any locally endangered animals and plants within your destination. Be careful when buying wildlife souvenirs so that you don’t unwittingly purchase souvenirs made from endangered plants or animals in which trade may be regulated or banned.

Drugs

• DO NOT get involved with drugs
• Obey local laws. Penalties are often severe and include massive fines and long prison sentences in grim conditions. You can receive the death penalty in some countries. We cannot get you out.
• NEVER carry packages through Customs for other people.
• Do not sit in anyone else's vehicle when going through Customs or crossing a border – always get out and walk.
• Always pack your own baggage and never leave it unattended.
• If driving do not lend your vehicle to anyone else.
• Do not give medicines prescribed for you by a doctor to people you meet on your travels.

Alcohol

• Be aware of the local laws and attitudes to alcohol.
• Do not try to import alcohol into a country where it is prohibited - penalties can be severe.
• Public drunkenness is frowned on wherever you are.

Driving

• DO NOT drink and drive.
• Make sure you know the driving laws, license requirements and driving conditions specific to the country you are visiting.
• Make sure your UK driving license is current and valid. Some countries require you to hold an International Driving Permit (IDP) with your UK license.
• If you are staying for an extended period of time or for any reason other than tourism check what the driving license requirements are.
• Be aware that in many countries there are on-the-spot fines for traffic offences. Exceptions are not made for foreigners.

If there is a natural disaster or trouble flares up

• Contact your family and friends to let them know that you are safe and healthy.
• Do this even if you are not near the area – remember family and friends will not know exactly where you are but they will worry if they think you are in potential danger.

Money & Credit Cards

• Use a money belt or secure inside pocket. If you have to carry a lot of money ask your partner or a friend to carry some for you.
• Don't carry all your cards with you – leave at least one in the hotel safe. If you lose or have your credit card stolen cancel it immediately by phoning the relevant 24-hour emergency number.
• Change money in banks or legal foreign exchange dealers. It is often illegal to change with unauthorized persons, and you run the risk of receiving fake currency and arrest.
• Keep all exchange receipts, as you may have to prove you obtained your local currency legally.
• Ensure your credit card bills are paid and kept up-to-date whilst travelling.
• Consider where your money goes. Try and put money into local people’s hands; try local drinks rather than imported brands; stay in locally-owned accommodation and try to eat in locally-owned restaurants.

Travel documents

• Keep your passport in the hotel safe and carry a photocopy with you.
• Keep your travel tickets in a safe place.

If you have anything stolen

• If your money, passport or anything else is stolen report it at once to the local police.
• Obtain a police statement about the loss: you will need one to claim against your insurance.
• Theft of money – phone your bank at home to transfer money or to cancel your credit card using the relevant 24-hour emergency number.
• Theft of traveler's cheque – contact the issuing agent.
• Theft of tickets – see your tour representative or airline agent.

Respect the local Environment

• Think about what happens to your rubbish e.g. take biodegradable products and a water filter bottle to cut down on plastic waste.
• Help preserve local wildlife and habitats by respecting rules and regulations. Be aware that buying any wildlife souvenirs or products is highly risky – If in doubt don’t buy! See the UK Department of the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) Souvenir Alert! Campaign, which highlights the pitfalls of buying wildlife souvenirs abroad and also Trade Hotspots.
• Customs throughout the world confiscate illegal souvenirs and in the UK you could face a criminal prosecution and unlimited fines.

Cultural Awareness

• Get a good guidebook. This will tell you about the country you are visiting. Find out about local laws, customs and culture.
• Take a phrase book and try speaking the local language.
• Respect local customs and dress codes. Think about what you wear and how you fit in. Ask your tour operator or guide if you are unsure.
• Be discreet about your views on cultural differences and behave and dress appropriately, particularly when visiting religious sites, markets and rural communities.
• Particular care should be taken not to offend Islamic codes of dress and behavior with regard to sexual relations, alcohol and drugs.
• Always ask an individual’s permission before you take a photograph and respect their reply. In some cultures you should not attempt to photograph women.
• Don’t haggle too aggressively. In most countries where haggling is the norm, it is done with good humor and not for too long. Although prices are usually inflated for tourists, it’s also important to remember that the discount you are haggling over could be a few pence for you but a significant means of income for a seller.
• It is always best to err on the side of caution. Behavior that would be regarded as innocuous elsewhere can lead to serious trouble.

Travel advice

Summary

• We advise you to exercise caution and monitor developments that might affect your safety in Mongolia because of the risk of serious criminal activity.
• Pay close attention to your personal security and monitor the media for information about possible new safety or security risks.
• Australia does not have an Embassy or Consulate in Mongolia. The Australian Embassy in China provides consular assistance to Australians in Mongolia. The British Embassy in Mongolia can also provide limited assistance to Australians.
• Be a smart traveler. Before heading overseas:
  • organize comprehensive travel insurance and check what circumstances and activities are not covered by your policy
  • register your travel and contact details, so we can contact you in an emergency

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Safety and Security

Terrorism

Terrorism is a threat throughout the world. You can find more information about this threat in our General Advice to Australian Travelers.

Crime

We advise you to exercise caution and monitor developments that might affect your safety in Mongolia because of the risk of serious criminal activity. Pay close attention to your personal security and monitor the media for information about possible new safety or security risks.

The incidence of violent crime continues to increase, particularly in the capital, Ulaanbaatar. Assaults and theft directed at foreigners are becoming more frequent in major cities and tourist areas. Travelers have been robbed and assaulted when walking at night.

Travelers have reported being robbed by criminals posing as police officers, particularly in the Sukhbaatar Square area of Ulaanbaatar. Petty crime such as pick pocketing and bag snatching is increasing. Thieves typically operate on public transport and in crowded areas in Ulaanbaatar such as the Gandan Monastery, the State Department Store, the so-called "Black Market" and the train station.

Thefts frequently occur on trains traveling between Mongolia and Russia. Travelers have also been robbed when using unlicensed taxis.

Local Travel

Driving in Mongolia can be hazardous, particularly at night, due to poor visibility, road conditions, vehicle maintenance and local driving practices.

There are few sealed roads outside of the capital, Ulaanbaatar.

Climate conditions in Mongolia vary from +35 degrees Celsius in summer to -40 degrees Celsius in winter. Even in summer, weather conditions can change quickly, heightening the risk of hypothermia. GPS, maps, communications equipment such as a satellite phone and emergency medical supplies can assist travelers visiting non-urban areas, where communication and medical facilities are often limited.

Insurance policies should have provisions for delays to your itinerary as heavy snowfalls in Mongolia can hamper access to many regional areas, and for medical evacuations from remote locations.

Local travel and bus operators may not carry accident liability insurance.

Quarantine restrictions to access some regional districts are occasionally in place for diseases such as avian influenza and foot and mouth disease. Restrictions are subject to change and you should seek information from the Mongolian authorities or the nearest Mongolian Embassy or Consulate if you are planning to travel to regional areas.

Airline Safety

From 31 March 2007, passengers on international flights to and from Australia will only be allowed to carry a small amount of liquids, (including aerosols and gels) in their carry-on baggage. You can find out more information at the Department of Transport and Regional Services website.

If you have concerns about the safety standards of a particular airline or aircraft, we recommend you research the airline or aircraft through organizations such as the Civil Aviation Safety Authority and the International Civil Aviation Organization. The Department of Transport and Regional Services has published fact sheets on security for air travelers. When staff at Australia's overseas missions are provided advice not to use particular airlines due to safety concerns this will be included in travel advice.

The European Union has published a list of airlines that are subject to operating bans or restrictions within the Union. The United States Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) through its foreign assessment program focuses on a country's ability, not the individual airline, to adhere to international standards and recommended practices for aircraft operations and maintenance established by ICAO.

Natural Disasters

Mongolia is in an active seismic zone and is subject to earthquakes. The rainy season occurs between July and September.

Information on natural disasters can be obtained from the Humanitarian Early Warning Service. If a natural disaster occurs, follow the advice of local authorities.

Wildlife Watching

Australians are strongly advised to maintain safe and legal approach distance when observing wildlife. You should use only reputable and professional guides or tour operators and closely follow park regulations and wardens' advice.

Money and Valuables

Before you go, organize a variety of ways of accessing your money overseas, such as credit cards, travelers' cheques and cash. Check with your bank whether your ATM card will work overseas.

The number of ATMs in Ulaanbaatar is limited. Older US currency (including the 1986 series) will not be accepted in Mongolia, even by banks. Outside Ulaanbaatar you should carry local currency.

Make two photocopies of valuables such as your passport, tickets, visas and travelers' cheques. Keep one copy with you in a separate place to the original and leave another copy with someone at home.

While traveling, don't carry too much cash and remember that expensive watches, jeweler and cameras may be tempting targets for thieves.

As a sensible precaution against luggage tampering, including theft, lock your luggage. Information on luggage safety is available from The Australian Civil Aviation Safety Authority.

Your passport is a valuable document that is attractive to criminals who may try to use your identity to commit crimes. It should always be kept in a safe place. You are required by Australian law to report a lost or stolen passport. If your passport is lost or stolen overseas, report it online or contact the nearest Australian Embassy, High Commission or Consulate as soon as possible.

Since 1 July 2005, Australians have been required to pay an additional fee to have their passport replaced. In some cases, the Government may also restrict the length of validity or type of replacement passports.

For Parents

If you are planning on placing your children in schools or child care facilities overseas we encourage you to research the standards of security, care and staff training within those establishments. You should exercise the same precautions you would take before placing children into schools or child care facilities in Australia.

Ideas on how to select child care providers are available from the smart traveler Children's Issues page, Childwise and the National Childcare Accreditation Council.

 

Local Laws

When you are in Mongolia, be aware that local laws and penalties, including ones that appear harsh by Australian standards, do apply to you. If you are arrested or jailed, the Australian Government will do what it can to help you but we can't get you out of trouble or out of jail.

Information on what Australian consular officers can and cannot do to help Australians in trouble overseas is available from the Consular Services Charter.

Penalties for drug offences are severe and include lengthy imprisonment served in local jails.

Some Australian criminal laws, such as those relating to money laundering, bribery of foreign public officials, terrorism and child sex tourism, apply to Australians overseas. Australians who commit these offences while overseas may be prosecuted in Australia.

Australian authorities are committed to combating sexual exploitation of children by Australians overseas. Australians may be prosecuted at home under Australian child sex tourism laws. These laws provide severe penalties of up to 17 years imprisonment for Australians who engage in sexual activity with children under 16 while outside of Australia.

Information for Dual Nationals

Mongolia does not recognize dual nationality. This may limit the ability of the Australian Government to provide consular assistance to Australian/Mongolian dual nationals who are arrested or detained.

Australian/Mongolian dual nationals intending to reside in Mongolia may be required to complete national service obligations. For further information, contact the nearest Embassy or Consulate of Mongolia well in advance of travel.

Our Travel Information for Dual Nationals brochure provides further information for dual nationals.

 

Entry and Exit Requirements

Visa conditions change regularly. Contact the nearest Embassy or Consulate of Mongolia for the most up to date information.

A visa is required for all travelers to Mongolia.

If you intend to visit Mongolia, your passport must be valid for at least six months after the duration of your intended stay. Travelers are also required to provide evidence of a return or onward airline ticket.

Local authorities may require you to have a HIV/AIDS test if you intend to stay in Mongolia for longer than one month.

Overland entry, other than by train, is not allowed unless special permission is obtained in advance from the Mongolian Authorities.

If you are intending to travel to China from Mongolia, you will not be permitted by the Chinese Authorities to enter unless you have a valid entry visa for China. If you are intending to enter Mongolia from China and then re-enter China (e.g. transiting Beijing on a return journey) you must have a double or multiple entry visa for China.

Many travelers have reported border and customs difficulties when entering Mongolia from Russia by train. Problems may occur if all goods and cash have not been declared on customs declarations when entering and exiting Russia.

You are required to register with the police if staying in Mongolia for longer than 30 days. Failure to do so may result in a substantial fine. Residents who have registered with the police are required to de-register with the police before attempting to leave Mongolia. Those who do not may not be allowed to exit through Mongolian border controls or may have to pay a substantial fine.

The importation of electrical and some high technology equipment is strictly controlled. This extends to the importation of equipment in accompanied baggage. Certification and approval is required. This does not apply to common items such as laptop computers.

 

Health Issues

We strongly recommend that you take out comprehensive travel insurance that will cover any overseas medical costs, before you depart. Confirm that your insurance covers you for the whole time you'll be away and check what circumstances and activities are not included in your policy. Remember, if you can't afford travel insurance, you can't afford to travel.

The standard of medical care and range of familiar medicines available in Mongolia is often limited, particularly outside Ulaanbaatar. Doctors and hospitals require cash payment prior to providing services, even for emergency care. In the event of a serious illness or accident, medical evacuation can be provided but are expensive and difficult to arrange with possible delays to obtaining required approvals. Payment is usually required up-front for medical evacuations and costs may exceed $60 000.

Water-borne, food-borne and other infectious diseases (including HIV/AIDS, and hand, foot and mouth disease (HFMD, hepatitis, meningococcal, rabies, typhoid and tuberculosis) are prevalent with more serious outbreaks occurring from time to time. We encourage you to consider having vaccinations before traveling. We advise you to boil all drinking water or drink bottled water, and avoid ice cubes and raw and undercooked food. Do not swim in fresh water to avoid exposure to certain water-borne diseases such as schistosomiasis. Seek medical advice if you have a fever or are suffering from diarrhea.

The World Organization for Animal Health (OIE) has confirmed cases of avian influenza in birds in a number of countries throughout the world. For a list of these countries, visit the OIE website. For information on our advice to Australians on how to reduce the risk of infection and on Australian Government precautions see our travel bulletin on avian influenza.

Your doctor or travel clinic is the best source of information about preventive measures, immunizations and disease outbreaks overseas. The World Health Organization (WHO) provides information for travelers and our 'Traveling Well' brochure also provides useful tips for staying healthy while traveling overseas.